Friday, March 11, 2011

Let's make a skirt part 4: Sewing the fabric

First, you'll need to line up the side seams and make sure the right sides are facing each other. Make sure to check that you have the patterned fabric facing the same way.


Pin the side seams together.


Now you're ready to sew. On your sewing machine, it should have seam measure guides. My sewing machine shows the measurements in 1/8ths. So, because I'm doing a 1/2 inch seam, I'm sewing at the 4/8ths line.


If you're using a serger, like I am, the seam measurements are on the machine.


Sergers are great because they make really clean seam edges. But, never fear, you don't need a serger to make this skirt. After sewing your side seam, go over the edge with the zig zag stitch. All basic sewing machines have this seam. The wider the zig zag, the better.


Once you've sewn up the side seams for the top tier and bottom tier, it's time to ruffle the bottom tier. First, stitch a 1/4 inch from the edge of the top of the bottom tier in the longest stitch length your machine has. Do the front side only, then the back side. Do not stitch the entire width of the fabric or you'll be sorry. I have and was sorry for doing it.


Do this again, 1/4 inch from that stitch.


To start creating the ruffles, you'll take the threads that are underneath, (the bobbin threads) and start to pull the threads together while gathering the fabric and shimming the gathers down the stitch. Do this until you have gathered the entire front of the skirt, then do the back.



When you attach the top tier to the bottom tier, make sure the right sides face each other. Line up the side seams and pin together.



After this, pin the bottom tier to the top tier and spread the ruffles evenly. If you need to, pull the threads to lessen the width of the bottom tier, or spread the fabric along the stitches to lengthen.


It's time to sew! You're going to sew between the stitches. That is where the 1/2 inch seam should be. You can serge or use your standard machine.


Perfect! You'll notice the second stitch is visible. Pull that out.




It's at this point I notice that I have sewn the bottom tier upside down. How do I know? Because the skulls are staring at me upside down. WAAAAAAAAAAA! I take out my trusty seam ripper. Which we should all have, and get to ripping.


After composing myself and sewing the skirt right side up......... Top stitch the top tier along the seam between the top and bottom tier. This really gives the skirt a refined finish.



You're almost done! All you have left is the hem and elastic casing. For finishing the hem you will use the rolled hem technique. Basically you will roll the fabric 1/8th of an inch twice and sew.



You're almost to the finish line. This is what your project should look like. Or at least close to it. Next, you'll learn how to make an elastic casing.

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